painted-parsons treasure-island

dragonfly under the stars

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more doilies

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corners and foliage

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Doorway doilies

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A very special dragonfly

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Stairway to...

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Doilies in progress

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Dutch Princess Máxima and Prince Willem-Alexander visiting our house!

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grand opening

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at home

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A place to lean in the doorway

Houseslippers by Erzsi with Rumjana's needlepoint lace

hands and flowers

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A hand beaded by Jessica placed on yellow tradecloth

A circle of beginnings of doilies waiting for other makers to continue working on them

Rose is making a flower in bobbin lace to be placed on Jessicas beaded hand

the first doilies

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Making the doilies we were inspired by the beautiful nature on Governors Island and little found elements were integrated in the work

Corner doily on a bench made by Nightwood

Desiree embroidering on a drawing on velvet by Erzsi

outside doilies

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A star and a dragonfly by Jessica Growing Thunder

our first beadwork

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The first day we learned the basic beading techniques from Juanita and Jessica, working on the terrace in front of our house

introducing the makers

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Most of the makers brought a few pieces of former work to the house, to introduce themselves.

Desiree placed them beautifully in the room-en-suite on the right side of the house.

Rose Marcus Leroy making a bobbin lace flower to place on the hand

Painted piece for Margreet, one of the designers, especially for the opening of the Fashion Biennale Arnhem, The Netherlands

a beaded neckpiece by Jessica Growing Thunder, surrounded by Painted accessories

The clothes made by Pascale Gatzen, the different elements interwoven with fabric, there is a beautiful movement in the pieces

On the left you can see a neckpiece made by New York designer Sarah Aphrodite and a pair of shorts from her collection on the floor

Pascales work

Earrings and necklace inspired by the dragonfly, made with the smallest beads and the most amazing colours.

Improvised elements for the doilies, made by Magdalina from Sofia, Bulgaria

Erzsi's work, she makes beautiful drawings, mostly portraits, but also tiny sculptures out of leather

Furniture by Nightwood

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Nightwood, Nadia Yaron and Myriah Scruggs, made all the furniture we used in and around the house. We discussed it would be multiple pieces that can be combined in different ways so that people can be mobile and create their own workplace in and around the house. The furniture was beautiful it blended in perfectly with the house and its environment. It had the kind of sturdiness that illuminated and supported the fragility of the delicate doilies that were created by all makers involved.

Margreet was charmed by the idea of having a rocking chair on the porch of the house, we had planned to work mostly on the porch. But it could not be a conventional rocking chair seamlessly affirming the romantic idea of a rocking chair on a porch. Just as our ambition in working with traditional crafts and handwork it developed to breath and reflect the spirit of our time.

On Sunday the 6th of September we welcomed Juanita and Jessica Growing Thunder!

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Today, after two days of settling ourselves in the house and dressing it with inspirational treasures, Native American bead artists Juanita and Jessica arrived at Governors Island.

They showed us pictures of their beautiful Painted dolls. Joyce Growing Thunder, Juanitas mother was the creator of this type of doll -- amazingly detailed and made with so much love.

Each little person carries her or his own story. Here we introduce you to a few of them!

A beautiful fully beaded belt made by Jessica as part of her dance costume

Jessica wearing the Dragonfly necklace and earrings that Juanita made

dressing around the house

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first days; dressing the veranda

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the first day

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about the people in our house!

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Pioneers of Change , House 17 ‘Coney Island’

Painted, a Dutch designer collective led by Saskia van Drimmelen, Desiree Hammen (fashion designers) and

Margreet Sweerts (theatre maker), has been invited by Renny Ramakers to participate in the event ‘Pioneers of Change',

based on Painted Series, a series of garments grown from different hands.

Painted invited Pascale Gatzen, Dutch fashion designer living in New York and coordinator of IDC fashion,

part of Parsons the New School for Design, to collaborate with them.

Sharing the wish to work with masters in handicrafts they started to develop this project together.

The empty house on Governors Island is seen as a body and the various makers are dressing it by making

‘couture’ doilies -little treasures- to protect, to ornament, and to accentuate it.

The new collaboration of makers consider the house as a present and their gift to the house is their work.

Imagining a new first meeting between Native Americans and people from Europe, they envisioned an encounter

through the beauty of their traditional techniques and mutual respect.

Painted invited three Native masters in beadwork: Joyce, Juanita and Jessica Growing Thunder and are very proud

to share words and wisdom in making work on the island. For Saskia a long time wish came true!

Pascale had the wish to work with lace makers and invited Marie Rose Delahaye, master in lace making and geographer

and some of her students to work in the project.

Then to complete the list of invitations, Dutch friends were invited to join in this ongoing process, Erzsi Pennings; visual artist,

Emmeline de Mooij; visual artist and stylist; Sarah Aphrodite Stolwijk; fashion designer, and the New York based Nightwood;

Myriah Scruggs and Nadia Yaron, makers of reincarnated furniture.

PAINTED is known for presenting an off-schedule collection created by themselves and a sequence of invited designers

in league with Bulgarian artisans since 2006.

In a poetically utilitarian approach, Painted combines sharply stylized couture with handicraft intensive evocations of

traditional ceremonial garments. The unique pieces, made by many hands in fellowship, conjure up the notion and

spirit of an heirloom that can be experienced as you wear them.

Attire in progress that grows out of different autographs, Painted Series marries nearly forgotten techniques with

contemporary elements. Cord embroidery, needlepoint lace, bobbin lace all factor into the garments,

reflecting Painted’s conviction that newness doesn’t necessarily equal advancement and there is an imperative

to inventively revive and transform almost forgotten techniques.

Utilizing them in modern and often sumptuous clothing is Painted’s goal – finding their place in a forward thinking,

conscientious milieu. Painted wishes to further their mission to make clothes with materials of personal value to the client.

An interview about their experiences and desires in dressing culminates in a voyage of discovery for both Painted and the patron.

Their clothes are constructed so the making process is the actual design process, a kind of clothes far removed from

standardization – personalized, individualized pieces as a rule.

www.paintedseries.com

Pascale Gatzen is a fashion designer and one of the six designers of ‘Le Cri Néerlandais’ in the mid-nineties together with

among others Saskia van Drimmelen and Viktor and Rolf. They were the first Dutch fashion designers next to Orson& Bodil

to present their work on a catwalk in Paris.

Pascale is currently building a new alternative fashion curriculum in Parsons, the New School for Design, New York.

IDC Fashion is a concentration in Parsons’ Integrated Design Curriculum and an alternative to the well-known fashion program of Parsons, uptown. It utilizes a holistic experiential approach to educating students within the context of garments, identity, media and fashion.

“The only rule is work. If you work it will lead to something. It’s the people who do all of the work all the time who

eventually catch on to things.”

Students in IDC Fashion continuously create work, they are encouraged to experiment, to collaborate, to share, to go to creative places they have not discovered yet and to inspire each other. They test the results of their work by wearing it, presenting it, exchanging it in real life situations that bring them and their work outside of the classroom.

IDC Fashion is about sharing and creating in abundance, with love and confidence.

“Nothing is a mistake. There is no win and no fail. There is only make.”

(quotes from Sister Corita)

www.pascalegatzen.com ; www.nativefunkandflash.com

Joyce, Juanita and Jessica Growing Thunder Fogarty are 3 generations continuing the longtime tradition within their family

to make beautiful beaded dresses and painted dolls.

Joyce Growing Thunders’ work in the tradition of the Assiniboine tribe is collected by museums like the Metropolitan Museum of Art,

the Museum of Native American in New York and collectors of native art.

Daughter Juanita is especially skilled at quillwork, which she characterizes as one of the first authentic Native art forms.

Jessica is a born master in beadwork and taught herself the techniques by looking at her mother and grandmother.

Her inventive spirit made her renew the traditional work by making spiritual circles in the background of the designs in beadwork.

She is famous for her beautifully made dance outfits.

Joyce, Juanita and Jessica often work on their pieces together, and by night and day, living with the knowledge of the spirits

surrounding us.

Marie Rose Delahaye is a graduated master in making lace and a geographer. She traveled to many places in the world and

everywhere she could work on the different techniques and styles in making bobbin lace.

She always loved to work on traditional pieces but is now curious to bring the old style and contemporary design together.

With her knowledge of the history of lace she also did a study for the Metropolitan Museum of art to find out when

the detailing in lace was added to a certain painting.

Nightwood specializes in reconstructed furniture and textiles to create hand crafted one-of-a-kind products.

Based in Brooklyn, they made all the furniture to fit the house and the porch. With a down to earth yet airy aesthetic and sensibility, Nightwood conveys a modern rusticity that emphasizes hand crafted one-of-a-kind products.

The two halves of Nightwood are Myriah Scruggs and Nadia Yaron.   They have been collaborating since 2003 and their vision is complimented and completed by each other’s work.

www.nightwoodny.com

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Beaded detail and drawing for Give Away Horses, a dress created in 2006 by Joyce Growing Thunder Fogarty to honour

her grandparents Ben and Josephine Gray Hawk

In her work, Juanita Growing Thunder-Fogarty favors both abstract and realistic designs focused on nature, mythology, and daily life that are interpretations of historical imagery and sometimes come to her in dreams.

Growing Thunder-Fogarty’s great-grandmother made 17 women’s outfits in her lifetime, all by kerosene lantern, and her mother, Joyce, has completed a woman’s outfit commissioned by the Smithsonian that is exhibited this year in New York.

Partly quoted from Southwest Art

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Details of antique dresses from around 1850 showing porcupine quills and beadwork

Juanita is especially skilled at quillwork, which she characterizes as one of the first authentic Native art forms.

Quillwork has a deeply spiritual history: Legend has it that Blackfeet artists learn to quill in their dreams. The Dakota Sioux tell of an old lady making a quilled robe which, when finished, would signal the end of the world. As she sleeps each night, the dog at her feet tears out her day’s work. Each morning she must begin anew.

Quills must be pulled from a freshly killed porcupine, washed to remove the oil, and dyed using a combination of synthetic and natural coloring from wolf moss, bloodroot, and blackberries. “What takes so long is the sorting,” the artist explains. “The quills are all different sizes. I sort by size and color, a little at a time. It would take a month if I picked them all at once for a single piece.” She softens the quills in warm water and flattens them using her teeth, then attaches them to deer or moose hide with applique or zigzag stitches. Often her bags are finished with quills wrapped around slatted rawhide to create complex patterns.

Joyce, Juanita and Jessica Growing Thunder

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In this picture you see Joyce Growing Thunder wearing a traditional Assiniboine-style dress that she made. Grass Valley, California 1986

For this special occasion we have the opportunity to work together with native beadwork and quill artists Joyce, Juanita and Jessica Growing Thunder.
They are 3 generations continuing the longtime tradition within their family to make beautiful beaded dresses.

Currently they have been making new work for August’s Santa Fe Indian Market..
This time they made 3 painted dolls.

Juanita Growing Thunder-Fogarty, 40, began beading simple belts at age 10 and soon graduated to dolls, cradle boards, knife cases and medicine bags adorned with beads, tassels, and quills modeled on those her nomadic Sioux and Assiniboine ancestors packed and carried across the Plains.

A house is a house is a house

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A House is a house is a house:
A house can be seen as a human body.
We will make couture doilies on the spots where the human body touches the house.
This is for healing, protecting and ornamenting it.
Little treasures as a gift from us to the house.

A few pictures of ways the body contacts the house in a regular way.

Magi's work

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Preview of Magdalina's work straight from Bulgaria.

The house

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This is our house on governors island, the house can be seen as a house and be seen as a body, like I told earlier on this blog.

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Into the new

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Luba, who works with us for Painted as a interpreter of the Bulgarian language and a mediator between us and the bulgarian artisans went to Bulgaria again yesterday and will ask Rumjana and Magdalina to add needlepoint lace to the little pieces of fabric.
They will improvise in structures, with flower forms and geometric figures.
We are excited to receive them back to see how they will be.
The pieces will be a part in the 'cloths' for the house.

A house

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A house can be seen as a body.
In that way a house can be dressed.
That is basic principle from which we work and make cloth for the house where the human body touch it.

forms and structures

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The beginning of a story part two

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The beginning of a story

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Amazed by old artworks of native american people.
Inspired by the words and their meaning.
The stories about life and death and cirle inbetween.